In Threes

Here's a new one: I'm sick. I don't know what the hell is going on, but I haven't been able to break this fever. It's starting to make me a little loopy.
Enough of that. It's December 27th, which means since the last time I posted, both Christmas and the anniversary of the Tsunami have passed. Starting with the former, Christmas was spent in the most unconventional way. Jon and I both had an assignment up in Phang Nga reviewing an ATV company. ATV, aptly shortened from All Terrain Vehicles, was but a mere title to which we (stupidly) paid little attention. Since Jon is still recovering from surgery on his arm, it was up to me to drive this beast of a thing. Thus, on one ATV was Jon and me, and on the other was the ATV "expert" and our our photographer. I use "expert" loosely- not because he did not have a masterful grasp on ATVs- but because he did not seem to grasp my barely novice abilities. Starting out, he took us on what he later informed us was the "expert" trail. Imagine jungle- no trails, no clearings- just jungle, complete with steep inclines and unannounced ditches. In his broken English we were able to catch the importance of not going too quickly, for fear we would flip backwards and be crushed, and of not going to slowly, for fear we would not make it up the inclines. He thought it was hysterical- watching two terrified farangs take on the jungle aboard the most awkward and un-ergonomic machine possible. Once we conquered the advanced "trail," he rewarded us by taking us on a pretty mesmerizing tour of the more 'doable' jungle. In addition to being writers, Jon and I were also the staple models of the day- both sweaty and terrified- we posed for god knows how many pictures which are tragically going in the magazine.
The day after Christmas marked the one year anniversary of the Tsunami. There's not much I can say about it that you didn't see on the news, except what it felt like to be here. I mentioned before that Thais are the most resilient people, and yesterday was a glowing example. In general, the air was much more solemn, but everyone went about their days as usual. It was a haunting feeling to go down to the beach where thousands of people had been killed exactly one year ago. I thought about my students who had lost parents and siblings and how they are still too young to understand their losses. I can hardly understand any of it.
Today marks the third anniversary of my dad's death. It seems fitting to go to the beach.

The Pavement Won

Carrie, Jon and Courtney... Looking good after the accident. 

Going Direct the Other Way

First and foremost, Jon is slowly (very slowly, it seems) getting better. I still spoon feed him since his hands are like gauze mitts, but we both find the whole undertaking pretty hilarious. His clothes sadly reveal the fruits of my labor, however, as most of the food doesn't make it all the way to his mouth. (If you're lost- wondering why I am spoon feeding Jon- refer to the post below.)
Per my nature, I've taken on another job. In addition to teaching (and being a clumsy nurse), I'm writing for a local magazine, providing reviews of everything from restaurants to helicopter rides to bars to hotels. This means two things: free entertainment- in the broadest sense of the word- since everything I do is comped. Somehow I landed a job in which companies are actually asking me to visit them and try what they have to offer- all at no expense to me. Pretty basic, I suppose: they make sure I enjoy myself, I make sure they get good press out to the English speaking tourists (i.e. the primary market). I should emphasize, if not evident, that this job is for higher end restaurants and activities, those that cater to Western tourists, and none of which I have anything to do with before and after my allotted working hours. Once finished, I'm back to my little town with 25 Baht ($0.60) meals, a side of ants and the increasingly nostalgic smell of burning trash. Ignoring all the free crap I get, it's an edifying experience to live on the fence between this societal and cultural dichotomy.
Being a staff writer, however, also means that I am going to have to sit down and actually write thoughtful reviews, not just spit out rants and raves on my blog between classes, meaning a significant chunk of my time is siphoned into working longer hours. I'm not complaining, I'll take a free massage or hotel stay any day. I'm only hoping I can continue doing both.

Sit Down, Stand Up

I feel like I haven't slept in a month.
I did get away this weekend, but it wasn't to Khao Sok as planned. On Friday I got a call from Devlin at 3am in which he told me that Jon was in an accident. Within a couple hazy minutes I was on my way to the hospital, where I found the 'EMTs' placing him on a table in the emergency room. When I first saw him, he was a mangled mess- his skull was showing and his face was unrecognizable from all the blood. Still unconscious, occasionally seizing, he just lay there as I held his hand and the doctors cleaned and stitched him up. 35 stitches in his face alone, but that didn't include the surgery for his shattered arm, which would follow his stint in the emergency room. His whole body was covered in some gnarly gashes, but with all the blood I couldn't even tell exactly where they were. Even in the mess of the situation, I still had to sign off on all his procedures and give them my 'ok' for what they needed to do. In Thai. From Friday night until today, Tuesday, I didn't leave the hospital. He was discharged today and is doing a lot better, but the whole thing is terrifying regardless. I'll let you know how his recovery goes.
Despite such a relaxing weekend, I'm back at school. It's 'Polio Eradication' day and all of the children are lining up for oral vaccinations. Volunteer doctors from all over are here going from one student to the next, dripping a red liquid into their mouths. Pretty primitive. It's times like this when it hits me that I'm living in a developing country. No shit- I know- but for some reason it's becoming less and less glaring. Maybe because I have habituated enough to blur the distinctions? I don't know. The thing is, several of the things I experience here are certainly not limited to Thailand and other developing countries. America has several of the same problems- neglect for the poor, abominable health care- as we saw most recently during Katrina, though we can ignore them so much easier. Maybe the difference in proportions makes it seem less severe- the disparity more acute- I don't know. Mainly, in America we have the ability to at least assuage these problems, though we don't, whereas Thailand desperately wants to and cannot. Disgusting.
On a smaller level, a few weeks ago I posted my encounter with fleas in my rice. This has become an everyday occurrence, though I admit I find more ants than fleas these days. It doesn't bother me- I don't know how this fits into being a vegetarian- but it just doesn't faze me anymore. I toss in some chilli sauce and it tastes just fine.

Teacher Floozie

It's ping pong season. What it is not, however, is the 'dry season,' though it is painfully past due. Monsoon season was supposed to end on Loi Krathong, which was a few weeks ago, but it seems the flooding is getting worse. Yesterday it flooded 14 inches in less than 3 hours. I like rain- I actually do- but I'm more than ready for it to hibernate already.
We didn't make it to Khao Sok this weekend. Why? Well, guess who got sick again. Really, I wasn't that bad, but going to Khao Sok meant staying in a tree house in a jungle and being extremely active, which I couldn't have done. No worries, we're going this weekend.
I'm happy to report that there has been no vomiting or shitting among my students (at least not in my presence or in class). In fact, this week's misfortune belongs to me. Though the faux pas is my own, I blame my uniform, which was measured and tailored by a person at my school, and subsequently fits me awkwardly in certain (key) places. Unbeknownst to me, whilst standing in front of my P3s teaching a class, a button from my shirt popped off. Not just any button- the one strategically placed over my chest- leaving me quite literally busting out in front a class full of small children. Yes, there was in fact a gaping hole in my shirt with full view of a bra and no immediate remedy. At the moment, I have a safety pin pulling the shirt back together, but I'm afraid to say that these little tykes have seen more of Teacher Christine than I would have hoped.
I think my post about needing books has been answered. I received word that my wondreful mom and aunt have sent me 22 pounds of books. If Jon doesn't steal them all, I couldn't be happier.
Philipa, get your ass out here. Alexis, oh Lex... thanks for all your support. Lauren, wish me a "Merry Christmas" one more time...
(Interesting fact: picking one's nose in Thailand is hardly taboo; actually, it is accepted and practiced frequently, openly and shamelessly by everyone. Try listening to your boss while his or her finger is 2 digits lost to a nostril.)